Gabe and Asher are back from Geneva, lightly jet-lagged after roughly 30 meetings across three days at Watches and Wonders. Rather than rehash the releases everyone already covered, this episode is dedicated to the watches they think didn't get the attention they deserved. The rule: hands-on only. Four picks each, plus a few honorable mentions.

The list spans a revived historical brand delivering a striking jump hour in a Geneva-sealed movement, a sophomore release whose gearing is literally re-cut so the date numerals sit evenly on the dial instead of bunching up at the double digits, a beloved grand date finally scaled down to wear properly on a smaller wrist, and a half-million-dollar resonance minute repeater with a second chiming mode designed, essentially, to show off. Elsewhere: a cushion-cased diver that wears nothing like its spec sheet, a brand that took everything in-house and cut its average price by 30 to 40% — a direction almost no one else is moving — and a pilot's watch that refuses to follow the obvious template, with a gradient dial lifted straight from RAF aircraft livery.

Honorable mentions include a chaotic mainstream release neither of them can stop thinking about, and a side quest into neo-vintage territory.

Openwork is a weekly podcast about how the watch industry actually works. An unfiltered look behind the scenes — no press releases, no hype, and no sponsored takes. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube Music, or wherever you get your podcasts.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

Gabe and Asher bring a firsthand report from Watches and Wonders 2026 in Geneva, jet‑lagged but watch‑fueled. They walk listeners through the week’s key impressions: a general sense of underwhelming novelties from the big brands, alongside impressive investments in booth design and production value.

The episode zeroes in on Audemars Piguet’s controversial, fully walled booth and strict queuing system, a move the hosts find off‑putting in a community event. In contrast, they highlight the energy downtown — the Beau Rivage, Time to Watches, Chronopolis and one‑off brand showings — where independents are generating excitement.

Notable moments include Moser’s playful Reebok collaboration, Credor’s surprising standalone presence, and the growing prominence of independent makers in the Palexpo and around Geneva. The hosts also praise brands and spaces that created calm, focused environments for hands‑on encounters, such as Berneron’s art‑gallery meeting.

Overall the episode frames the week as a snapshot of an industry in flux: shifts in where the action takes place, evolving brand strategies, pressures from costs and logistics, and a renewed appetite for independent creativity. Gabe and Asher close by promising a follow‑up with their favorite unsung watches of the week.

Openwork is a weekly podcast about how the watch industry actually works. An unfiltered look behind the scenes — no press releases, no hype, and no sponsored takes. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube Music, or wherever you get your podcasts.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

Gabe and Asher conduct the first-ever Openwork Watch Brand Draft — a snake-style, six-pick fantasy exercise where each host selects watch brands they'd want to own and operate across three categories: independent, micro/challenger (under $5,000), and mainstream luxury. Ground rules exclude AP, Patek, Rolex, Richard Mille, and any brand Collective Horology carries, keeping the conversation free of commercial conflicts and full of candid business analysis.

The independent and micro picks reveal what Gabe and Asher value most in a watch business — from creative extensibility and succession planning to supply chain execution and untapped product categories. Some selections are love letters to brands already firing on all cylinders; others are driven by a conviction that the right operational changes could unlock serious growth. The hosts don't hold back on where they'd steer things differently if handed the keys.

The mainstream luxury round sparks the sharpest strategic debate, with one pick framed as a direct competitive threat to Patek Philippe and the other as a brand with world-class watchmaking credentials that just needs permission to break out of a self-imposed design box.

Plus, J.N. Shapiro joins the Collective Horology Open House lineup on June 6th in Hollywood — RSVP at collectivehorology.com/openhouse.

Openwork is a weekly podcast about how the watch industry actually works. An unfiltered look behind the scenes — no press releases, no hype, and no sponsored takes. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube Music, or wherever you get your podcasts.

You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.